CBX footpeg restoration a pictorial look
By Nick Plooy

Alrighty here we go. I've taken six pictures from various angles and showing the end result.

This is a CBX peg that has been prepared for the replaceable rubber. I cut out as much of the original rubber as possible and then used a die grinder and a wire wheel to remove the rest of the rubber. Two holes have to be drilled for the attaching plate. Hardest part was getting the holes in exactly the right location.

This is a top view of the replaceable rubber section.

 This is a end view showing the hollow end of the rubber section

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This is the bottom view of the rubber section showing through holes for mounting bolts.

This is the metal plate that sits inside the hollow rubber section.

This is the completed peg. I wanted to take a picture of this peg next to a CBX peg but the CBX peg I have isn't in very good shape. If you look very closely at the top view of the rubber piece you will notice a very subtle difference in the profile of the rubber squares. Average Joe wouldn't be able to tell but if you are looking for exact factory match you may not be satisfied. It is a lot cheaper than replacing the entire peg which is what you have to do if you want a factory CBX replacement. Not sure if they are even available anymore. The peg is a little soft underfoot but not noticeably so. Some people may even prefer a bit of a cushion. I don't think you will experience the rubber bits breaking off with this system because of the softness. The only other parts required but not shown are two 5x25 bolts and a couple of 5mm lock washers. Obviously these will be visible on the bottom of the peg. Part Numbers are; Bolts, Hex 5x25 - 92000-050250A Washer Spg 5mm - 94111-05000 It would be cheaper to get those from a bolt house or Home Depot though.

Here's a side and bottom view of a completed peg. Gives you an idea of the appearance with the bolts on the underside of the peg. When on the bike the only way you can see these is if you are laying on your belly and then looking for them. Rich Pleines suggested grinding a flat spot on the underside of the peg for the bolt head and washer. I didn't do that and you can see a slight gap on the outboardside of the bolt heads

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This is a bottom view of a peg drilled for the replacement. This was a peg a friend had laying around which he sacrificed as a test piece. As I said in an earlier post the hardest part is locating the holes to drill in the exact location. Looking closely at this picture you can see that I wasn't exactly in the center of the rib on the bottom with the outboard hole. If I remember correctly I drilled a pilot hole from the flat side and finished up from the bottom. You also have to be accurate in setting the peg square to the drill bit. Enough words of caution. I to like the idea of countersinking a allen head screw rather than use the hex bolt and I think there is sufficient material to do it as long as you are bang on center of the rib with the holes. Measuring with my caliper the width of the rib at the inboard hole is 12.7 mm and at the outboard hole 11.5 mm. Depends where exactly you measure as the rib has rounded edges and sloping sides.

Just for info I bought these parts back in Aug. 2000. At that time the cost in CDN bucks was as follows;

Rubber Step - $8.03
PL Step Stopper - $5.11
Hex Bolt - $1.75
Washer - $.45

So for a grand total of $17.54 CDN per peg I had new ones. Can't beat that!!!

Another option is to buy the entire peg assembly:

Left Peg - 50640-MC7-000
Right Peg - 50630-MC7-000

Those will run you a few more $$$$$.